T musician Lorde appeared on the cover of US Vogue this week wearing a Schiap breastplatearelli. Metallic flowers became a makeshift bra, while the rods served as a belt. The New Zealander having released a new album, Solar Energy , about nature's transcendental capacity, this body jewel seemed to say that its allegiances lie with the natural world. Perhaps it also served as protection against the artificiality of the urban environment, as well as against recent reviews of his work.
From Lorde to Cardi B, Bella Hadid and Gwyneth Paltrow, who wore one, by Tom Ford, on the cover of Harper 's Bazaar in February , the breastplate has become the most popular feminist trend.read striking fashion. In an era of constant online surveillance and criticism, this is a literal piece of armor, with an implicit reference to Joan of Arc. “At every turn, as women we are now politically exposed and we expect us to fight for the kind of feminism we want to support,” says Angela McRobbie, cultural theorist and commentator. "[The breastplate] reflects our current sense of being " besieged "as women.
Last month, Cardi B wore a gold breastplate in the video for Lizzo's Rumors. This elevated her pregnant body, adding to the growing trend towards the destigmatization of pregnancy in popular culture .
In Cannes in July, Bella Hadid wore a gold breastplate ofifferent, this one in the shape of lungs, from the same Schiaparelli collection as Lorde. The look doubled as a red carpet mastery 'look at me' ("When I looked down you could see everything, so it was very weird walking the carpet with a breeze in the clouds. places you usually wouldn't break "she told Vogue ), but also as physical protection against the sea of flashing light bulbs from photographers.
" It makes us look at her chest, but then pushes us away when we realize it's a golden lung with jeweled bronchioles, "says Andrew Groves, professor of fashion design at The University of Westminster. "There is a contradiction at play here between soft and fragile objects which are remelted into hard and cold gold.
McRobbie performs the natharsh and llic ure of body jewelry as a rejection of men's expectations of women in the public eye. She sees a connection to A Cybord Manifesto, a 1985 essay by American scholar Donna Haraway. "I'd rather be a cyborg than a goddess," Haraway wrote.
The breastplate transcends gender differences and expectations. “This is an escape from the normative body. The idea of Haraway's cyborg was to radically denaturalize femininity and the female body, ”says McRobbie. “In many ways it offered a feminist defense of radical body modification. "