Years ago a friend who loved white Burgundy Said to me: "Everyone loves Chablis, but it 's nobody ' s favorite.
I knew exactly what he meant. Chablis has a special place in the hearts of lovers of white Burgundy, but it is rarely as revered as the more exalted whites of the Côte de Beaune, such as Meursault les Perrières and Chevalier-Montrachet, not to mention Le Montrachet itself.
I have the impression of returning this comment in my head since. Finally, I had a revelation. Chablis is someone's favorite. It 's mine.
I do not mean to say that I would prefer it to one of these wines from the Côte de Beaune. I wouldn't, because these wines are ridiculously expensive. The opportunities to drink them are rare, and often dependent of the generosity of those who can afford them.
Chablis, however, remains relatively accessible. Yes, the most famous producers, like François Raveneau and Vincent Dauvissat , are now expensive. But dozens of other excellent estates produce formidable and distinctive wines. Their affordable price is worth a lot of affection.
The biggest problem for Chablis now is climate change. For most of the 20th century, Chablis has been on a razor's edge in terms of climate. Each year was a bet to know if the chardonnay would ripen sufficiently, becausethe region lies in the northernmost part of Burgundy.
Now the question is whether the vintage will be so warm that Chablis will lose the qualities that make it so distinctive. The 2017 vintage was ideal for Chablis lovers. In 2018, it seemed that many wines could be described as Chardonnay rather than Chablis. They were excellent, but less distinctive.
This month, I thought about reviewing the 2019 vintage of Chablis. Reports put it in the Chablis camp rather than the Chardonnay camp. This is the opportunity to examine this firsthand. Here are the three wines I recommend:
Samuel Billaud Chablis 2019 (Shiverick Imports, Los Angeles) $ 30
Gilbert Picq & Ses Fils Chablis En Vaudecorse 2019 (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, NY) $ 33
Patrick Piuze Chablis Terroir de Fye 2019 (Bowler Wines, New York) $ 34
If you can't find these particular bottles, many other choices would be fine. Picq and Piuze offer many other cuveess de village (I think it 's too early to drink premier cru and grand cru wines, so look for village wines Other producers to consider are Christian Moreau , Gerard Duplessis , William Fèvre , Moreau- Naudet , Vocoret , Laurent Tribut , Alice and Olivier de Moor , Louis Michel et Fils and Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin .
Vintage is the most important thing, so be sure to buy 2019s.
Chablis is wonderful with seashells and other delicate seafood . Do not hesitate to experiment with your pairingss, but when in doubt, lean towards classic combinations.
Join the discussion
Eric Asimov, wine critic from Hfrance.fr, talks about Chablis. Taste wines, and while you sip, ask yourself these questions. Join the conversation by sharing your thoughts in the comments to this article.
What distinguishes Chablis from other Chardonnay wines?
Round and generous, or austere?
If you remember other Chablis vintages, how does 2019 compare?
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