It doesn't was not just sweatshirts and leggings. A whirlwind tour of how the pandemic has occupied our clothes, from India to Italy.
Having months of self-isolation, lockdown and irrevocable homework changed what we'll put in once we get out new? For a long time, the assumption was yes. Now, as the restrictions ease and the opening ofoffices and travel is suspended like a promise, this expectation looks more like a qualified "maybe". But the experience of all countries over the last year was not the same, and neither was the clothing that dominated local wardrobes. Before we can predict what will happen next, we need to understand what happened. Here, eight correspondents of Hfrance.fr in seven different countries share the dispatches of a year of dressing. Image Francesca Zanni, an actress and director in Rome. Credit ... Tayler Smith for Hfrance.fr
Retail reports, fashion magazines and personal accounts agree: working from home this year, many women Italian women found comfort in knits. Those who could afford it preferred cashmere wool knits, like Italian Vogue called "a luxury version of the classic two-piece sweatshirts ".
Fabio Pietrella, the president of Confartigianato Moda, theFashion branch of the Association of Craftsmen and Small Businesses, said that while consumer trends indicated a shift from "professional looks to comfort", it was "not too much comfort". Italian women, he said, avoided sportswear for "quality knits" which guarantee freedom of movement but with "a minimum of elegance".
A headquarters survey of a random sample of working women, mostly in their 40s and 50s, found that many continued to dress as if they were going to the office, even with a preference for comfort over intelligence.
A woman said she wanted to get dressed - knit top and pants - and going out every morning to a local cafe for coffee before to sit at his desk. Another said she dressed as she was before Covid to set an example forher two teenage boys, who (she joked) had completely stopped bathing after months of distance learning.
Astrid D 'Eredità, a cultural consultant and new mother, said she gave up pajamas "even when I was pregnant" and opted for a casual but neat style. Pajamas and sweatshirts also have a thumbs-down from Simona Cap Ocaccia, a graphic designer who has been working from home since last March. "Dressing for work comforts me," she says.
Milena Gammaitoni, professor at Roma Tre, one of the main universities in Rome, can spend whole days at the computer, between meetings of the Zoom department and her classes with the students (who she asks not to wear pajamas), but she still dresses as she did before Covid, with a colorful jacket over more casual pants. = "css -axufdj evys1bk0 "> " Receipthowever, I even started wearing perfume "she laughs. " I think I am totally fried.
L 'actress and director Francesca Zanni, who worked on a documentary about Italian women during the lockdown last year, said a woman continued to wear high heels at Zoom meetings even though no one could see her feet . Another insisted on dressing for dinner at home, choosing a different color each night. “But it didn't last too long,” she said. "Her husband has had enough.
According to Mr. Pietrella of Confartigianato Moda, a study found that Italian women choose to dress for the working from home to erect a kind of "psychological wall" to separate oneself from the rest of the family.
"Dressing sends the signal that mom is at home, but that she worksille, "Mr Pietrella said." So, no, mum, help me with my homework, mum, did you go shopping? Mum, I need this or that. 'Mum is working , so she adopted a look that makes it clear to other family members that she is in work mode. ”
Elisabetta Povoledo Image Street style in Dakar. Credit ... Ricci Shryock for Hfrance.fr Image Credit ... Ricci Shryock for Hfrance.fr
Not even a pandemic diminished Dakar's claim to be the most stolen city on the planet.
In the Senegalese capital, at the westernmost tip of Africa, men in pointy yellow slippers and crisp white boubous - long loose tunics - still glide through the streets dredged up with Saharan dust. Young women are still sitting in cafes sipping baobab juice in patterned leggings and jeweled hijabs. Everyone from consultants to greengrocers, always wear great head-to-toe prints.
Sometimes they pornow try a matching mask.
While much of the world was locked up at home, many people in West Africa were working or going to school as usual. The lockdown in Senegal only lasted a few months. It was impossible for many people here to continue. They depend on going out for a living.
And in Dakar, going out means getting dressed.
Even if you are going to work on a construction site. The young men who join them each morning, with sardine chopsticks wrapped in newspaper under their arms, haven't changed their look from tracksuits - pants on the skinny side - with transparent jelly shoes or Adidas sliders on socks and sometimes one of the black- and-white woolen hats the poet and revolutionary Amilcar Cabral loved . Image Bigue Diallo, on the right, serves customers at his restaurant in Dakar. Credit ... Ricci Shryock for The Hfrance.fr
Still, many citizens have had to tighten their belts, and the ban on large gatherings for baptisms and weddings means less new clothes are needed.
As a result, there is less touch-up work for itinerant tailors who roam residential areas, the sewing machine hoisted over one shoulder, jingling a pair ofe scissors to advertise their services. And the couturiers who have small workshops in reconverted garages in every district of Dakar, open doors ready to assemble an emergency outfit in an hour or less, have in many cases had to let the apprentices go because there was not enough work.
Like many Senegalese women, Bigue Diallo used to get a new dress for every event - and if it was the party of a close friend, she received several. These days she doesn't see the point.
"I'm not going to waste my money if I can wear my outfit for only two hours out of 10 to 15 people," said Ms. Diallo, owner of 'a restaurant in Dakar. "I would like a lot of people to see it.
Ruth Maclean and Mady Camara Image Carla Lemos in Rio de Janeiro . Credit ... Tayler Smith for Hfrance.fr Image Flip-flops were the success story of the p andemic. Credit ... Tayler Smith for Hfrance.fr
Carla Lemos was rarely at home in February of last year, before the pandemic hits Brazil. The author and influencer was dressed in black jeans, a cardigan and scarf.Oxford shoes in cold airports and meeting rooms or in a cropped V-neck shirt, high waist skirt and trendy shoes on summer nights in Rio de Janeiro.
A year later, her wardrobe has changed as much as her lifestyle. "I was attached to things because they were beautiful, not comfortable," she says. "I realized that clothes have to suit me and make me live better," she said. It meant loose dresses, kimonos, and flip-flops.
Indeed, the seesaws are the sartorial success story of the pandemic in Brazil. Although clothing sales fell 35% last year, according to estimates from market research firm IEMI, flip-flop label Havaianas saw sales increase 16% from 2019.
Enter new toe socks, sparkly flip flops forReveillon and socks with themes inspired by Brazilian biodiversity and the LGBT community.
Ms. Lemos fought the gloom with a dopamine-friendly dress style that she traced in the struggles of growing up in the suburbs of Rio.
"The city is colorful, and where I lived, we mixed textures and prints because we reused the clothes from an older sister or cousin, ”she said. "This is who I am today, and it's also an integral part of the Brazilian fashion identity.
Flavia Milhorance Image Sanshe Bhatia, teacher in New Delhi. Credit ... Tayler Smith for Hfrance.fr
Professionals in their 30s and 40s favored comfort over style during from last year. Formal outfits have been replaced by athleisure, shoes by flip flops (as in many other Asian cultures, most Indians do not wear shoes inside their homes), and formal shirts are often required. worn on video calls with pajamas, sweatpants or shorts below.
in the world between March 25, 2020 and the end of May 2020; the only purchases allowed were for groceries and essential drugs. Even online retailing has been completely cut off except for essentials. In consequenceConsequently, clothing sales fell nearly 30% last year according to a joint report by Boston Consulting Group and Retailers Association of India .
Although infections have been low during the winter, recent weeks have seen cases rise to staggering levels in many parts of the country. Right now it looks like many people will be working from home for most of 2021 as well.
For Ritu Gorai, who runs a network of moms in Mumbai, that means she barely shopped at all, instead using accessories like scarves, jewelry, and glasses to brighten up her look and add a bit of polish.
For Sanshe Bhatia, a schoolteacher, this meant swapping her long kurtas or formal pants and blouses for kaftans and leggings. In order to encourage her class of 30 children to dress in the morning rather than dress up in the morning rather than dress up in the morning. attending classes in pajamas, she takes care to look neat and make sure her long hair is well brushed.
And for Ranajit Mukherjee, a politician Congress Party (the main opposition party), instead of going to different circumions, he had to swap his normal political uniform - a white kurta-pajamas, used to distinguish party members from workers from companies, and a Nehru jacket for more formal events - for casual t-shirts and pants. Most of his colleagues, he said, did the same.
Shalini Venugopal Bhagat Image Nathalie Lucas, Director of Merchandising general at Printemps in Paris. Credit ... Tayler Smith for le Hfrance.fr
Nathalie Lucas' hair fell elegantly over a puffy black shirt with wide lapels. A thick silver chain encircled her neck, and a bright red lipstick conveyed a pop of color. size, she was wearing casual black sweatpants - "by Frankie Shop," she said, "just like my shirt and collar." And, said the general manager of merchandising ector at the department store Au Printemps, "I'm barefoot.
" Working atdistance has really changed customs "she says.
And yet the Zoom skin is " something that worries the French ", said Manon Renault, expert in sociology of fashion. "Especially the Parisians, who feel that they represent elegance." And while a certain carelessness has recently caused the conservative weekly Le Figaro Madame to worry about whether household habits would drag out fashion into a tailspin ", interviews with several Parisians suggest that some kind of compromise has been reached.
When Xavier Romatet, the dean of the Institut Français de la Mode , the first fashion school in France, returned to work, he was not wearing a suit , but he was wearing a white shirt under a navy cashmere sweater and beige chinos, just like at home. He paired his outfit with sneakers by Veja , a French eco-responsible brand.
Likewise, Anne Lhomme, the creative director of Saint Louis, the luxury tableware brand, dresses in the same way whether it is from a distance or in person. A favorite look, she says, includes a camel-colored cashmere poncho "designed by friend Laurence Coudurier for Gallery poncho "and loose plum silk pants. Also lipstick, earrings 'ears and four Swahili rings she found in Kenya.
For his part, Thierry Maillet, the general manager of Ooshot, a production platform of 'visual assets, developed a domestic uniform work that involved his old work uniform from the waist up - a light blue or white shirt , which I buy at Emile Lafaurie or online at Charles Tyrwhitt , with a round-neck sweater if it's cold ”- and, from the waist down,“ stretch fabric Uniqlo pants ”.
And Sophie Fontanel, writer and former fashion editor at Elle, said: "I am often barefoot at home, alone, dressed in a very pretty dress.
Daphne Anglès Image Mei Ishimoto in Yokohama, Japan. Credit ... Tayler Smith for Hfrance.fr Image Ms. Ishimoto 's makeup and jewelry, which she wears to online meetings. Credit ... Tayler Smith for Hfrance.fr
Since last spring,when many Japanese started working remotely, fashion magazines and online sites offered advice on how to look good on screen. The top priority was not relaxation or comfort, but a neat and professional appearance.
A woman who works as a sales agent for an Internet directory service attends a few online meetings days a week, and each time she puts a shiny knit top and full makeup. She said she wouldn't appear onscreen in a sweatshirt or T-shirt or any other clothing suggesting relaxing at home.
A woman who works in the accounting section of a design firm always puts on a jacket for online meetings with clients, although she still wears jeans below.
For both, colors, texture and designn Collars and sleeves are essential.
Fashion magazines and stylists have recommended elaborate puff-sleeve shirts and one-piece dresses because they are eye-catching on screen. FA fashion brands like Uniqlo, GU and Fifth , as well as high fashion brands, focused on satin shirts, in silk and linen with bow ties or stand-up collars, striped patterns or gathered sleeves. The trend for these showy tops has led to a boom in clothing subion services.
One of these platforms, AirCloset, announced that 450,000 users had subscribed in October 2020, three times more than in the same period in 2019. Often, users only ask for summaries.ets (a bottom item is usually included), and there is now a limit of three in a single order.
"Customers prefer brighter colors to basics like navy blue or beige for online meetings, or they prefer tops with an asymmetrical design "said Mari Nakano, spokesperson for AirCloset. About 40% of subscribers are working mothers for whom the subion service saved time because they didn't have to worry about washing. They simply bag the tops, turn them over, and wait for the next bundle to arrive with their new items.
Hisako Ueno Image Anna Lebedeva, marketing specialist from St. Peters burg . Credit ... Tayler Smith for Hfrance.fr Image Ushatava is an independent Russian fashion brand favored by Ms. Lebedeva. Credit ... Tayler Smith for The Hfrance.fr
As often happens in a country of multiple revolutions, a disaster that shakes the system often quickly advances the change in brewing. In sartorial terms, closed s meant a more isolated Russia, which meant more attention for local designers.
" We used to travel, and I saw people wearing in Paris and Rome, "said Nastya Krasnoshtan, who took advantage of free time during the pandemic to create her own brand of jewelry . "Now we cannot do this.
As incomes declined, especially among the middle class in large cities, many Russians could not more afford even the most popular foreign brands. Anna Lebedeva, a marketing specialist in St. Petersburg, Russia's second largest city, now mainly buys from Russian locals.
"People were hiding that they were wearing something Russian ", Ms. Lebedeva said. "It was not plugged in.
The pandemic made Ms. Lebedeva a fan of Ushatava , an independent brand of elegant designs with geometric and elegant shapes in mostly soft natural colors. It was founded in Yekaterinburg, a city in the Ural Mountains which in recent years has turned into a center of Russian fashion. 12Storeez , another booming brand from Yekaterinburg, saw its turnover increase by 35% during last year, even as the overall market shrank by a quarter, said Ivan Khokhlov, one of the founders.
Nastya Gritskova, head of a public relations agency in Moscow, said that the effect of the pandemic was that for the first time in the russian capital, lespeople stopped "Be careful who wears what." Yet last fall, when the government eased coronavirus restrictions, things started to return to normal again.
"There is no pandemic that can make Russian women stop thinking about how to be beautiful," she says.
Elisabetta Povoledo, Ruth Maclean, Mady Camara, Flavia Milhorance, Shalini Venugopal Bhagat, Daphne Anglès, Hisako Ueno and Ivan Nechepurenko contributed to the creation of reports.