In case you 'would have missed, a stay through the shows.
You know something has changed when the The biggest celebrity at a fashion show isn't Gina Gershon or Nicky Hilton, but Kathy Hochul, the new governor of New York.
Yet in while first New York Fashion Week since early February 2020 and Ms. Hochul took her front row seat at Prabal Gurung's show in Robert F. Wagner Jr. Park at the tip of Battery Park, she was assaulted by a flood of attendees at looking for selfies. It was a sign - as if it should be - that we are on the dawn of a new era.
The shows are back. The audiences in most of their garish plumage are back: street-style peacocks in fuchsia sequins pacing the sidewalks by mid-afternoon. They are transported through town into the hushed surroundings of the black Town Car, then disgorged from the quiet half-light into a herd of snaps - despite the fact that the shoe of choice is now a Birkenstock or a fashionable sneaker.
C 'ewas, like the return of Broadway , the return of the US Open , on return of the Met Gala , presented as a great thing; part of the re-emergence of New York required by vaccination. Image Down the Collina Strada Trail in Brooklyn Grange, a huge urban rooftop farm. Credit ... Nina Westervelt for Hfrance.fr
The city itself had a prominent role. The skyline served as the backdrop for Peter Do 's first show , which took place in a drive-in at Greenpoint; the verdant hills of Little Island and the rolling waves of the Hudson River framed The look of Proenza Schouler ; the city lights seen from the observation deck of the 'Empire State Building twinkled behind LaQuan Smith 's track .
The general mood was joy to have the chance to be in person again, with a hint of initial discomfort.Most of the crowd was masked, but a large part of it was not (usually the lot of celebrities). The face covers seemed uncomfortably like an accessory, rather than a crucial safety measure.
It all looked oddly familiar, but also, like Diane von Furstenberg ( who didn 't have a show) said "very different ". It's easy to scratch your head and wonder why a fashion show matters. Yet after 20 months of isolation and largely dressing for the kitchen table, it is now, perhaps more than ever in recent memory, a time when the question of what 'to wear then is topical.
So what's the answer? Image The Michael Kors collection has been revealed to Tavern on the Green in Central Park, and full of her sparkling dresses and bra tops. Credit ... Calla Kessler for The Hfrance.fr
Consider the trends
"You dress for the mess," Hillary Taymour from Collina Strada wrote in her showy notes. Then, amid the green onions and sunflowers of Brooklyn Grange, New York's largest rooftop garden, she sent an exuberant riot of overdyed pastels, oversized cargo pants and recycled materials, padded tank dresses and beetle-shaped breastplates, all layered willy-nilly while running, jumping, holding by thehand in hand with friends of various ages and affinities.
Nature was, as you might expect, one thing, inspiring people flower strewn boho-deluxe scarf dresses at Altuzarra and flower-smeared cottons to Jason Wu, who has had one of his best shows of the seasons. Mushroom prints were appearing everywhere.
America too, with Tory Burch offering an ode to Claire McCardell, the godmother of sportswear, under the form of quirky shirt dresses, and Brandon Maxwell embracing pink and green, shorts and sweatshirts. Gingham was everywhere, including at Prabal Gurung and Coach, where it took on gigantic proportions in a combo of style Bonnie-Cashin-meets-skate.
But the most ubiquitous item was the bra top, on just about every runway: in colored glass on a t-shirt at Maryam Nassir Zadeh's; in silver sequins under a white tuxedo in a Michael Kors Collection full of lace dance dresses and scoop necklines.
" people want to show off their bodies, "Kors said." Whether they're 20 or 70, size 2 or size 22. They want to feel good about themselves! "
And the possibility of a return to the office
They also want a bridge between where we've been (swaddled and scared) and where maybe we're going (back to the office?).
This is Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were thinking in their show Proenza Schouler. "It's a celebration of a newfound freedom that still feels slightly fragile," said Mr McCollough of the cropped pants that curved a bit from thigh to calf to leave room around the legs. , jackets with slanted shoulders and flowing trench coats. Also the tunics with a New Look puff and jet bead fringed mid-length sleeves and long, slim high-necked dresses with four levels of fringe at the skirt.
But that could just as easily apply to Peter Do 's elegant meditation on the shirt dress as a crucial part of the four-part costume, and The artisanal meshes of Gabriela Hearst , created in collaboration with collectives of craftsmen from Bolivia, Uruguay and the Navajo nation, which nourish the soul while enveloping the silhouette.
Not to mention Sergio Hudson ' s way with proportion, seen in tone-on-tone red pants slightly flared, matching turtleneck, large hood and belt with large golden circular buckle. Michelle Obama wore similar attire to President Biden 's inauguration and looked like Washington ' s version of a superhero. (re) entry.
This is why Moschino's "baby ladies , a candy-colored parade of small lunch suits, 1960s miniskirts and bow shirt dresses gingham and curly neckerchief scalloped with stuffed animals: rabbits, lambs and ducks - plus, for the evening, an asymmetrical patchwork baby blanket dress with one sleeve replaced by an elephant's trunk - hit such a strange note.
Lightness is a good glimpse of the world but infantilization, not so much. Image Evening outfits from the Moschino collection on the “baby lady” theme by Jeremy Scott, with nursery rhyme applications. Credit ... Landon Nordeman for Hfrance.fr
L 'Ombre du September 11
For two decades now, there has been so much It was surreal to attend a fashion show (or many fashion shows of mode) on September 11. This year it was especially the case, as virtually everywhere you looked there were memorials and tributes to the dead and the momentous - except on the catwalk.
Yet fashion and 9/11 are irrevocably linked, the attack having taken place just at the start of New York Fashion Week, and because the events triggered by that moment shaped what followed. Nobody knows this better than Rachel Comey , part of thegeneration of designers whose company was founded in the year of the fall of the towers. This week was also her 20th birthday.
Avoiding her usual dinner theater with friends and family, she and choreographer Beth Gill offered a ever-changing crowd: walking, kissing, undressing, melting on desk chairs and interacting differently in graphic print dresses, sleek black jumpsuits, glittery culottes and artful artist blouses. It was messy and confusing and hard to know where to look. A reminder of life, in its complicated glory. Image Models at Thom Browne. E The designer returned to New York for his show after four years unveiling his collections in Paris. Credit ... Landon Nordeman for Hfrance.fr
Thom Browne , speaking from a microphone in the dark, held a moment of silence in tribute to the day and then unveiled a three-act collection based on JG Ballard's 1962 short story "The Garden of Time.
First an ode to the four-piece tailor-made gray suit; then, a meditation on the proportions and the power of the missing piece, superimposing austere tunics with mismatched sleeves on long skirts. And finally, a rainbow of what looked like the simplest of T-shirt dresses screen-printed to mimic the drapery of Greek and Roman statuary which turned out not to be printed at all, but rather rathertakes on trompe-l'oeil masterpieces constructed from layers and layers of tulle, each containing reconstructed and hand-applied shadows, like a topographic map of memory.
They had an elegiac quality, just like those of Kate and Laura Mulleavy Rodarte , which was held in the sculpted courtyard of the Westbeth Artists Complex Housing, with black and white dresses trailing lace fronds that clung so tightly to the breeze and parachute silks rolled up behind to swell in the wind. At the end, the models appeared barefoot, in matching silk dresses in cream tones, from ivory to gold to seashell pink, like a multitude of angels come to earth. Or a cult, depending on your point of view. Image Rachel The 20th Anniversary Show de Comey, which took place on the 20th anniversary of September 11, featured a multitudes cast and dance performance. Credit ... Nina Westervelt for Hfrance.fr
What to watch
In the end," New York Fashion Week: The Return "is closed a bit like a Ryan Murphy's miniseries: in a discorama rain of glitter and Technicolor, with very high production values and a star-studded cast that hid a dubious story.
Tom For d starred at Lincoln Center, with a show of dazzling loungewear cut with a touch of black leather, high-pile velor panties, and corsetry. There were tank tops spray painted in silver and denim washed in gold. A final "bride " wearing 24k sweatshirts, a bikini top and a silver trench coat. It was like the parody version of past career hits filtered through a work at home lens and then doused in Swarovski and glittering with the promise of We Will Go Out Again.
I hope he is not wrong. But it can also sound like a magical thought; the mode equivalent of "build it and they will come". (Design it and they'll socialize!)
There is a growing fault line in New York fashion between brands that have made their names in the end of the last century when the city was shapedby its bonfire of vanities, and the brands that emerged afterwards.
On one side are those like Mr. Ford and Carolina Herrera , whose young designer, Wes Gordon, is faithful to his loose dresses and cocktail puffs.
On the other hand are those like Vaquera , where Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee probed the tension between the pandemic and the desire to be in the world, delving into the damage done - throwing in a crumpled aluminum steering wheel, like a remnant of one to alternate the Miss America contest on basic gray sweatshirts; splash the "Go Away Evil" message on a glittery black sweater; making evening wear from what looked like trash bags.
Also Eckhaus Latta , where Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta deploy the comfort of ribbed knits like a rug that can be pulled out under you; Attach snaps along the curved seams of the stretch tops and pants, then remove the snaps to expose a thigh here, an armpit there, finding strength in a feeling of dislocation and unwinding.
On the fringe either, they widened the boundaries of Fashion Week in every sense of the word, dragging it to other boroughs and underground places; change the definition of who defines dress; recalibrate what matters.
They care less about the Met's hallowed halls or Cipriani's linen-covered tables and more about the unevenness and damage done ; are responsible not for the best dressed list, but for the communities they attract.
In the end, maybe this is the 'story that is really something to watch.